Rabari 1

Rabari 1

Seeking the scant shade available, a couple of Rabari ready for lunch — chapatti, a slice of onion, and pickle — which …

Rabari 2

Rabari 2

A rabari guides his flock to water. The arid terrain of Gujarat and Rajasthan do not have enough pasture to support the …

Rabari 3

Rabari 3

For a travelling community, safety often lies in numbers. The nomads rarely graze their sheep alone, especially when they are on the …

Rabari 4

Rabari 4

The nomads who keep cows and buffalo rank higher in Rabari society. For one, the cows produce more milk, which means more …

Rabari 5

Rabari 5

Rajeev and Budhan freeze in horror as they find me in the thick of the herd at during milking time. The cattle …

Rabari 6

Rabari 6

Doing their best to keep off the roads and traffic, a group makes its way through a thick acacia “forest”. Being stabbed …

Rabari 7

Rabari 7

Goats aren’t picky about what they eat, a reason why farmers happily allow the rabari to take over their land after harvest. …

Rabari 8

Rabari 8

The ability to think on your feet and live off the land are a big part of travelling light, and Santosh does …

Rabari 9

Rabari 9

Each day of travel ends with a thankless but important task – counting sheep. In real life, this is a task that …

Rabari 10

Rabari 10

The plans to settle rabaris are a double-edged sword in some villages. Keeping livestock makes it mandatory for the men to be …

Rabari 11

Rabari 11

Giving up the nomadic life comes with bonuses. With their son employed in a hotel, 70-year-old Gomti no longer has to worry …

Rabari 12

Rabari 12

As with all communities I have lived and worked with, the women never understand why anyone would be interested in photographing them. …

Rabari-12a

Rabari 12a

A striking feature among rabari women is the tattoos they wear. A dying tradition, the tattoos say much about the wearer, from …

Rabari 13a

Rabari 13a

Four-year-old Gopal’s education begins much before he is sent to the village school — with a little tour of areas his father …

Rabari 14

Rabari 14

The rabari at a ceremony to celebrate their homecoming. These events take place during the monsoon, and apart from the usual song …

Rabari 13d

Rabari 13d

A child suffering from indigestion is ‘cleansed’ by a priest ‘possessed by benevolent spirits’. While the rabari have access to, and consult, …

Rabari 15

Rabari 15

While mobile phones have made life a whole lot simpler for these travellers, communication continues the old-fashioned way. A rabari writes a …

Rabari 19

Rabari 19

Animals that can’t take the strain of the long migrations are nowadays left back in the villages. With little option for grazing, …

Rabari 20

Rabari 20

Like the clothes they wear, rabari homes, too, are mostly painted white. The drawings on the walls are made only for celebratory …

Rabari 21

Rabari 21

Milk still dripping from its mouth, a buffalo calf is dragged away from its mother. Calves and kids are allowed to suckle …

Rabari 22

Rabari 22

The milk collected every day is dispatched to collection centres, which too are run by rabaris. Not surprisingly, almost every centre has …

Rabari 23

Rabari 23

The milk delivered at the centres are tested for purity and fat content, which is the basis on which payments are made …

Changpa-1

Changpa-1

Shy yet curious a 3-year-old Changpa child greets a new day and a photographer on the Changthang, a cold desert at an …

Changpa 1a

Changpa 1a

Until roads connected the Changthang with Leh, Ladakh’s capital, horses and feet were the only modes of transportation for the nomadic Changpa. …

Changpa 2

Changpa 2

A Changpa races sunset to get his flock to the safety of their corral. These nomadic pastoralists are the guardians of pashmina …

Changpa 2a

Changpa 2a

A lamb exits the warmth of the womb to find warmth yet again in the heavy overcoat of a nomad. The Changpa …

Changpa 3

Changpa 3

  Among the last true nomads, the Changpa migrate as many as 8 times a year following rain and clouds to new …

Changpa 4

Changpa 4

A Changpa leads his horses under skies the raise false hopes of rain. Most pastures on the Changthang are nursed either by …

Changpa 5

Changpa 5

A Changpa woman helps a newborn goat finds its way to its mother’s udders. The nomads count their wealth in heads of …

Changpa 6

Changpa 6

Surviving winter is a full-time job that the nomads take seriously. With temperatures regularly dropping to below – 40C, the changpas spend …

Changpa 7

Changpa 7

Changpa men let their yak roam free, and check on them about once every fortnight. Here, a father takes his children along …

Changpa 8

Changpa 8

Days begin early at Changpa camps, which are chosen not for their proximity to water, but pasture. Tasks at camp are well …

Changpa 9

Changpa 9

Four-year-old Trinley’s face bears proof of the fierceness of weather on the Changthang. Legend has it that, on the Changthang, people can …

Changpa 9a

Changpa 9a

Tsering, now 6, takes a break from milking goats, a job she has been training for since she was 3. The task …

Changpa 10

Changpa 10

A Changpa children are sometimes left in front of open fires while their mothers go to fetch water. Younger children though, are …

Changpa 12

Changpa 12

Windspeeds exceed 80kph on the Changthang in the winter, making sandstorms a routine no one complains about. With almost no cover, the …

Changpa 13

Changpa 13

The winter cold ensures nothing remains liquid on the Changthang. The nomads have to collect ice and melt it for water.

Changpa 14

Changpa 14

The Changpas traditionally lived in yak-hair tents called rebo, but are increasingly opting to use canvas tents bought from markets, or given …

Changpa 15

Changpa 15

A Changpa woman roasts barley for the sheep and goat. Perhaps because of the changing climate, the valleys in the Changthang are …

Changpa 16

Changpa 16

Treating animals as equals is part of every pastoralist’s lifestyle. Horses and people share the same source of water in winter; the …

Changpa 18

Changpa 18

The hunt for the perfect white steed begins as preparation for the welcome of a monk. Each summer, Buddhist monks travel to …

Changpa 19

Changpa 19

A Changpa tent, no matter how small, has a corner dedicated to the gods. Despite roads and the advantages it brings with …

Dyers strait 2, Jaipur

Dyers strait 2, Jaipur

VIBGYOR and more brighten up the semi-dark interiors of a screen printing factory. While gaudy colours are the hallmark of Sanganer’s prints, …

Dyers strait 3, Jaipur

Dyers strait 3, Jaipur

A byproduct of the craft of screen printing reveals itself as two-finger graffiti on the walls. Such abstract creations are a result …

Dyers strait 7, Jaipur

Dyers strait 7, Jaipur

The owner of one of the workshops, Raj, whose name translates to ‘king’, supervises workers from his makeshift throne. “It is better …

Dyers strait 8, Jaipur

Dyers strait 8, Jaipur

Braving steam and stench, workers bleach fabric. While most are given trousers made of rubber, gum boots and gloves, they rarely wear …

Dyers strait 13, Jaipur

Dyers strait 13, Jaipur

An ageing screen-printing setup. As businesses fare better, most owners have built permanent structures that are better suited to let work continue …

Dyers strait 22, Jaipur

Dyers strait 22, Jaipur

Mahavir stands watch at the ironing machine. Given the exertion, and the lack of breaks in-between, watching over the ironing machine is …